Across Pushkin's mansions

#traveling #literature #english notes
Must-see places in the Pskov oblast
In this article you will plunge into a moving description of once ruined and then triumphantly restored mansions belonging to A.S. Pushkin and his ancestors in the western part of Russia, Pskov oblast. The trip to these mansions was a part of a week car journey which I named "the western mansion ring" itinerary, since it embracedseveral Russian writers' mansions in the western part of Russia.

Tip: click on the highlighted word to see the translation.
Petrovskoye
As the story goes, Pushkin's great anscestor, Abram Petrovich Gannibal, a noble man of African origin and a godson of Peter the Great, was granted the  lands of the Pskov region. He had his mansion built on those lands, but rarely did he visit his mansion. Following Gannibal's death, his sons split the land forming separate mansions. Son Peter had the mansion set in Petrovskoye, Osip — in Mikhailovskoye, Isaack — in Voskresenskoye.

Let's have a look at the Petrovskoye mansion images. Its modern aspect correponds to its appearance back in the 18 century. The frontyard of the mansion is decorated with the flowerbeds — roses.
In Petrovskoye, A.S. Pushkin wrote the novel about his famous anscestor — Gannibal.


Mikhailovskoye
Mikhailovskoye is a mansion, belonging to Pushkin's mother, where A.S. Pushkin spent several years in exile.
Tip: come to Mikhailovskoye from the side of Savkina gorka, the land that Pushkin dreamed to purchase.
This place is full of peace and tranquility: a flat hill, wooden wind mill, calm waters of the Kuchane lake. Captivated by this scenery, Pushkin wrote these famous lines:
And there’s the wooded hill, where I would often
Unmoving sit and cast my idle gaze
Upon the lake, remembering with sadness

Those foreign shores and foreign rolling billows…

Вот холм лесистый,

над которым часто

Я сиживал недвижим и глядел

На озеро, воспоминая с грустью

Иные берега, иные волны.

Have a stroll in the direction of the mansion, meditate in silence following the park paths. There are no excursions in the evening after 6 p.m., so that you can enjoy silent solo walks. This park seems magical and cozy with its century-old oak full of magnificently spread branches.
Arguably, this impressive oak inspired Pushkin to write these verses:

An oak tree greening by the ocean;

A golden chain about it wound:

Whereon a learned cat, in motion

Both day and night, will walk around;

У лукоморья дуб зелёный;

Златая цепь на дубе том:

И днём и ночью кот учёный

Всё ходит по цепи кругом;

The following path is a reminiscence of other famous verses by Pushkin I still recall the wondrous moment connected with Anna Kern, Pushkin's muse.
Here, in Mikhailovskoye, Pushkin used to stroll with her under the shade of lindens. And now this place is called "the Kern path".

If you go a bit further, you will come across a famous hump-back bridge, a sculpture depicting young Pushkin and several paths reflecting a special atmosphere of this place. You will definitely surrender to poetic mood.

Trigorskoye
In the same sunlit evening — evanescent miracle of the north — you will have time to capture sunset moments having a stroll in Trigorskoye. This mansion belonging to the family of the Osipovs-Woulfs, was very much cherished by A.S. Pushkin.
Trigorskoye was a silver bullet for the great poet because during his exile in Mikhailovskoye, the mansion of his friends — Trigorskoye — was the only place to relieve his sorrow and forget about his exile. The poet was sent to exile without any preliminary deadlines, so that he had no idea how long it would take.

In Trigorskoye, Pushkin could talk for hours with the mansion's inhabitants who sympathized with the poet. Trigorskoye is also a place where Pushkin wrote poems, the mansion being his source of inspiration. It is believed that the characters of the famous novel "Eugene Oneguine" were drawn from people living in Trigorskoye.
The Trigorskoye mansion is not characterisd by any exquisite beauty, since in the aftermath of fire, the owners decided not to complicate their lives and just added extensions to the existing building of the preserved bloc (occupied by the factory). The only decoration of the mansion that contributes to its restrained beauty is a porch with columns.

The mansion has a park with numerous paths, several ponds and a bath.
In the shade of trees, faraway from outside observers, you will notice an asylum for thoughts of Pushkin's favourite character — Eugene Oneguin.
Next morning, we saw the interiour of the mansions.

Let's visit Trigorskoye to trace its connections with Pushkin's life. Puskhin visited Trigorskoye for the first time in 1817. At that time, he came to his mothers' mansion — Mikhailovskoye — and paid visits to neighboors, noble families living nearby. The owner of Trigorskoye, Praskoviya Alexandrovna Osipova was enchantend by Pushkin from the start and their friendship ties were getting stronger during the poet's exile.
Pushkin's muse, Anna Petrovna Kern, was a niece of Praskoviya Alexandrovna. When Anna came to visit her aunt in Trigorskoye, she saw Pushkin for the second time. After their meeting Pushkin wrote this verse:
Detained in darkness, isolation,
My days began to drag in strife.
Without faith and inspiration,
Without tears, and love and life.

My soul attained its waking moment:
You re-appeared before my sight,
As though a brief and fleeting omen,

Pure phantom in enchanting light.

В глуши, во мраке заточенья

Тянулись тихо дни мои

Без божества, без вдохновенья,

Без слез, без жизни, без любви.


Душе настало пробужденье:

И вот опять явилась ты,

Как мимолетное виденье,

Как гений чистой красоты.

Trigorskoye attracted the poet not only by its inhabitants but also its great library. One could find the world literature in foreign languages here, books on philosophy, history, totaling 2000 volumes.
The mansion was a meeting point for gentle-minded and elevated souls, one could here people speaking French, Italian, Spanish. Now, some books from the library collection are stored in the academy of science in Saint Petersburg.
After finishing his verses Pushkin often read them outloud to the inhabitants of Trigorskoye. The habitual listener of the poet's verses was A.N. Woulf, the son of Praskoviya Alexandrovna, the mansion's owner.

Pushkin was also on very good terms with Eupraksiniya Nikolaevna, the little sister of A.N. Woulf. One day Pushkin cracked a joke saying "I was comparing my waist with the one of Eupraksiniya, the waists were identical, which means either I have a waist of a 15-year-old girl or she has a waist of a 20-year-old man". Later on, Pushkin dedicated to Eupraksiniya the verse:
If by life you were deceived,
Don't be dismal, don't be wild!
In the day of grief, be mild
Merry days will come, believe.

Heart is living in tomorrow;
Present is dejected here;
In a moment, passes sorrow;

That which passes will be dear.

Если жизнь тебя обманет,

Не печалься, не сердись!

В день уныния смирись:

День веселья, верь, настанет.


Сердце в будущем живет;

Настоящее уныло:

Все мгновенно, все пройдет;

Что пройдет, то будет мило.

Let's imagine the monotonous rural life of the mansion's owners. Everyone was involved in some activity: reading, playing the piano...then, unexpectedly, Pushkin enters the room and the life of everyone turns upside down. Jokes, laughter are heard everywhere.
Pushkin felt like fish in the water in Trigorskoye because he was cared for and understood here despite his flaws.
Let's now have a look at the room belonging to Praskoviya Alexandrovna — the owner of the mansion. She chose for herself a corner room with the windows overlooking the mansion's court. Praskoviya Alexandrovna was an iron lady and she had the power to control everyone. Her care towards Pushkin was confirmed when she addressed a letter to famous poet Zhukovsky asking him to talk to the tsar so as to reduce the time of Pushkin's exile.

Having seen the interiour of the Trigorskoye mansion, we can't but catch a glimpse at the interiour of Mikhailovskoye. It was the home mansion of the great poet, ironically, being the place of his exile.

I will just show you around the living room and the surrounding landscapes. Hopefully, this modest description will spark your curiosity encouraging you to visit the homeland of Pushkin in reality.

Vocabulary



Verbs


to plunge into smth — погрузиться во ч-л

to embrace smth — охватывать ч-л

to overlook smth — выходить окнами на ч-л



Nouns


itinerary — маршрут

ancestor — предок

aspect — внешний вид

exile — ссылка

stroll — прогулка

oak — дуб

reminiscence — напоминание

linden — липа
asylum — приют


Adjectives


solo — в одиночку

sunlit — освещенный солнцем

evanescent — мимолетный

restrained — сдержанный



Phrases

to surrender to poetic mood — поддаться поэтическому настроению
silver bullet — панацея
we can't but — мы не можем не
to catch a glimpse at smth — взглянуть на ч-л
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